Garter stitch jackets with faux fur trim

Garter Stitch Jacket with Faux Fur Trim

Child’s Sizes

4, ( 6, 8, 10)

Finished Chest 26.5 (29, 31, 32)”

Yarn

Paton Shetland Chunky (100 grams/3.5 oz) Black: 4 (4, 5, 5) skeins

Paton Cha Cha (50 grams/1. ) Disco 2 skeins

Lion Brand fun fur (50 grams/ ) 1 skein

Gauge

20 stitches=7”

Tools

• size 10.5 29”circular needles
• stitch holders
• yarn needle
• crochet hook size J
• 4-6 buttons

BODY

CO 76 (84, 88, 92) stitches.

Row K

When piece measures 14 (15, 16, 17)” shape armholes

Armhole Shaping

K 14 (16, 17, 18) sts, BO 10 sts, K 28 (32, 34, 36), BO 10 sts, K 14 (16, 17, 18) sts.

You will now have three sections, a front right, front left, and back piece. Place two front pieces on stitch holders.

Back

Join a ball of yarn to back. Work garter stitch until back piece measures 5” from armhole shaping. BO all stitches

Front right

work garter stitch until piece measures 1” from armhole shaping.

Neck Shaping

BO 5 sts at the end that is opposite of the armhole bind off section. Continue garter stitch until front measures back.

Front left

Repeat as for front right.

Sew shoulder seams

Sleeve (make 2)

CO 21 (23, 25, 27) sts

Work garter stitch for four inches.

Increase 1 stitch at beginning of each end and every eighth row until sleeves are desired length approximately 13 ½ (14, 14 ½, 15)”

Shape Sleeve Cap

Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 2 row; dec 1 st each end every other row 2(4, 6, 8) times; then ever row 6 (4, 2, 0) times. Bind off remaining sts.

Sew sleeves to jacket.

Faux fur trim

Bottom of Jacket

Row 1 Look at the first purl row at the bottom of the coat. Slip stitch yarn to just the top loop of the purl. Sc in just top loops of purl stitch around, sl st to first st. Place marker.

Row 2 Bring yarn up to next purl row directly above row just made. Sc around as for last row.

Repeat row 2 until faux fur trim measures app. 2” or desired thickness

Sleeve Cuffs

Repeat method as for bottom of jacket until sleeve bottoms measure 2 ½”

Neck trim

Row 1 Sl st yarn to front right top corner edge of neck. Work sc around top purl loop to other edge of neck, place marker.

Row 2 Bring yarn down to purl row below row just worked. Sc to other end of neck.

Repeat row 2 until trim is desired thickness.

Button band

Left front

Row 1 On bottom left of coat, sl st yarn. Sc to the beginning of the neck shaping.

Row 2 ch 1, sc in next sc and each sc to end, finish off, weave in ends.

Sew buttons in desired positions on left band

Right front

Row 1 On bottom right of coat, sl st yarn. Sc to the beginning of the neck shaping.

Row 2 ch 1, sc in next sc and each sc to end.

Row 3 ch 1, *sc in next sc and each sc to 2 sc below first button, ch 3 sk 2sc, sc in next sc* repeat until all button holes are made (check at this point to see if button hole fits over your button, adjust size as necessary). Finish off, weave in ends.

Almost seemless braided cardigan

Sizes

32 (36, 40, 44) Picture shown shows a size 40” with about 4 inches of negative ease.

Yarn

Cascade Peruvian highland wool (100 grams/3.5 oz) #2410: 4 (4, 4, 5) skeins

Cascade Peruvian highland wool (100 grams/3.5 oz) #8420: 1 (1, 1, 1) skeins

Gauge

17 stitches=4.5” on larger sized needles

Tools

• size 8 29”circular needles
• size 8 16” circular needles or dpn’s
• size 6 29” circular needles
• size 6 dpn’s
• stitch holders
• yarn needle
• crochet hook size I
• stitch markers
• cable needle (cn)
• zipper (do not buy until sweater is completed)
  

On smaller needles, CO 120 (135, 150, 165) stitches.

Row 1 *K2, P2; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2.

Row 2 *P2, K2; rep from* to last 2 sts, P2.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for (2 ½”)

Change to larger needles

Row 1 (RS) work Row 1 of Chart A, place marker (pm), K3 (5, 6, 8), pm, work Row 1 of Chart A, pm, K6 (10, 14, 18), pm, work Row 1 of Chart A, pm, K4 (6, 8, 10), pm, work Row 1 of Chart B, pm, K4 (6, 8, 10), pm, work Row 1 of Chart A, pm, K6 (10, 14, 18), pm, work Row 1 of Chart A, K3 (5, 6, 8), work Row 1 of Chart A.

Row 2 (WS) Work Row 2 of Chart A, P3 (5, 6, 8), Work Row 2 of Chart A, P6 (10, 14, 18), Work Row 2 of Chart A, P4 (6, 8, 10), Work Row 2 of Chart B, P4 (6, 8, 10), Work Row 2 of Chart A, K6 (10, 14, 18), Work Row 2 of Chart A, K3 (5, 6, 8), Work Row 2 of Chart A.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 in pattern until piece measures approximately16”, or size from armhole to bottom desired length of sweater, making sure to end on the last row of your cable pattern (row 7), armhole shaping will be row 8 of your pattern so you do not get confused later.

Armhole shaping (RS)

work Row of Chart A, K3 (5, 6, 8), work Row of Chart A, K 0 (2, 4, 6) BO 6 st, K 0 (2, 4, 6), work Row of Chart A, K4 (6, 8, 10), work Row of Chart B, K4 (6, 8, 10), work Row of Chart A, K0 (2, 4, 6), BO 6 st, K 0 (2, 4, 6), work Row of Chart A, K3 (5, 6, 8), work Row of Chart A.

Place right front and left front stitches on stitch holders.

Back

Add a ball of yarn to middle section of sweater. Continue in pattern until back sweater measures to desired length, measurements will vary depending on your torso, sweater shown is 21.5” Make sure to end your last row on row 8 of pattern. BO all stitches.

Left Front

Add a ball of yarn. Work 16 rows (twice through pattern)

(RS) BO 11 st. Continue in pattern until front matches back, or, for larger busts, make the front 8-24 rows longer than the back. Sweater shown is 16 stitches longer in the front than back. BO all st.

Right Front

Repeat as in left front.

Sew shoulder seams.

Sleeves

With larger 16” circular, pick up and knit 38 (46, 54, 62) st.

Continue in circles around sleeve working the following pattern:

All rows K11 (15, 19, 23) pm, work Row of Chart C, pm, K11 (15, 19, 23)

Work all rows of pattern 5 times then decrease the first stitch before and after your markers on the first row of the pattern five times. 28, 36, 44, 52 st remaining. If sleeve is not tight enough, continue binding off every other row until desired size is attained. Continue in pattern until sleeve is 2 ½ in above the length you want your sleeve to be, at the end of this row, join CC and begin rib pattern.

Ribbing

switch to dpns

P2, K2 around until sleeves measure 2 ½ in. BO all stitches.

Zipper band

With smaller sized needles and CC, starting at bottom right front, pick up and knit 78 st. (note: since lengths of band will vary, measure the length of your sweater from bottom to top, then multiply this number by 3.77. This will give you the number of st. to pick up, round to the nearest even number.

Row 1 K2, P2 to last 2 st, K2

Row 2 P2, K2 to last 2 st, P2

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until band measures 1 ½ inches or length desired to give you the fit you want in your cardigan. BO st.

Repeat for other side.

Neck

With CC, and crochet needle, slip stitch on top right of zipper band. *sk ½ in, dc 6 in next st. sk ½ in sl st in next st * repeat around, finish off.

(note: if you do not know how to crochet, the rib pattern on the neck will work just fine)

Weave in all ends.

Now, measure zipper band’s length and purchase zipper for sweater. Sew zipper.

Chart A

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Legend

□ k on RS, p on WS

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p on RS, k on WS

>>> sl 3 sts on cn, hold in front, k3, k3 from cn

<<< sl 3 sts on cn, hold in back, k3, k3 from cn

So far in February and only one WIP

I have read about both process and product knitters and I guess I find it hard to pin one or the other term upon myself. I think I'm one of those people who fits in right in the middle. I really enjoy the process of knitting, or crocheting for that matter, if I enjoy the project, but I also enjoy the end result. This is why it's almost unheard of for me to have more than one WIP. So far, this year, I have made the following:

January:

Central park hoodie (turned out way too big, I'll post a pic later...and explain)
Beanie for brother
garter stitch scarf for Rochelle
Sweet Pea Shawl for Zuzy
Flower afghan for Amber
February:
Two berets
Two hats to match twin's garter stitch sweaters, pics to follow
Two garter stitch sweaters for twins
Matching scarves for the twins sweaters, pics to follow

WIP: Cabled cardigan (I am making this one up )

Beret from Interweave Crochet

My mom asked me to make her a beret and I found a pattern in the Winter 08 issue of Interweave crochet. The pattern itself was a bit of a disappointment, because I had to tweak it to make it way less baggy. The twins said it looked like a clown hat the first time around. But the eventual end results were good; I liked it so much, I decided to make my sister Rochelle a blue one with some more of that blue baby yarn. The blue one turned out really well, now I know a really good use for baby yarn.